14 Beef stew (Ixtaltepec/Espinal) México.

María de los Ángeles Magaña

Historical Context

It is the most important preparation in the Zapotec culture in the region of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, mainly in the cities of Espinal, Ixtepec and Ixtaltepec. Some authors, such as Diane Kennedy, maintain that Ixtaltepec was the pioneer in the preparation, where it is made in large basins, or large clay pots, and some even prepare it in oval-shaped pans, which are still being made in the region. It is cooked to celebrate the patron saint of the city of Ixtepec (San Jerónimo Doctor), and for weddings in which its consumption and presence are essential.

Its preparation begins with the washing of the corn, this was an activity that was carried out when the river was not contaminated, the women knew that they had to go to the river to wash the corn and in it they washed the pots, after the also known washing of the pot. For any type of preparation, at least a couple of days and nights are required. In the case of the stew, a complete beef is cooked: the skin is removed and cut into pieces, the meat and bones along with many ingredients are cooked for several hours in a pot specially made for this type of food. The animal that is going to be cooked is given a previous walk, in which its horns are decorated with ribbons, and it is taken to the river.

Although it does not differ in content, the beef stew that is cooked in Santa María Jalapa del Marqués is thicker and is not eaten with a spoon but only with tortillas. Its color is darker, and its meat is marinated for about eight hours before cooking, it is cooked in a pewter pot or a small saucepan and it is cooked for two hours. The beef stew from Jalapa del Marqués has red guajillo and the recipes from Ixtepec and Ixtaltepec have ancho chili, this tells us about two versions of beef stew, but both are made for special events in the Zapotec and Chontal areas.

This preparation brings together female friends and relatives to prepare it: they congregate to peel vegetables, and in the end, there is always a cook who is in charge of cooking the meat day and night.

The recipe that I will share is the one that is prepared in Ixtaltepec and Espinal, two Zapotec cities of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec:

Ingredients:

• ¾ kilo of solid beef
• ¼ kilo of beef rib
• 5 ancho chili peppers
• 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
• ¼ bunch of herbs (laurel, marjoram and thyme)
• 1 pinch of oregano
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 1 piece of achiote
• ¼ liter of vinegar
• ¾ kilo of onion
• 1 head of garlic
• 1 kilo of tomato
• 2 slices of fresh pineapple
• 2 plantains
• ¼ kilo of butter
• 3 buns or chilindrinas (breads)
• Salt

Preparation :

Clean the chiles and soak them in water for half an hour; the aromatic herbs, oregano, cinnamon, achiote and vinegar are rinsed and ground with the pepper. Separately, chop the onions, garlic, tomatoes, bananas and pineapple; the meat and everything minced and ground are put in a pot, add the butter, cover and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally with a wooden shovel. The meat should be cooked until it is shredded, almost ground. Add the soaked and ground bread, salt to taste and cook until dry, remove the rib bones. (This recipe serves 10 people)

This meal is accompanied by pickled vegetables such as cauliflower, carrots, potatoes and spring onions. These vegetables are seasoned with pineapple vinegar, thyme, jalapeños and salt.

This stew is from one of the regions of the state of Oaxaca and for the cooks their food is Isthmian, not Oaxacan or Mexican, due to their regional pride. However, this food is Mexican because its ingredients contain indigenous elements such as chilies, a type of pepper typical of the region, and achiote. And the forms of preparation are Zapotec, in clay pots, charcoal and with wooden instruments. Together they add Mexican elements, and it is a Mexican food that is eaten with tortillas and salsa, classic Mexican accompaniments.

• Trinidad (Ecuador): fantastic pots and story! we have all these ingredients here, so I could probably prepare it in smaller portion. Which are the chilindrina breads? that makes so much part of the new combinations in this “nations”. Saludos
• María de los Ángeles Magaña: The “chilindrina” bread is: Chilindrina is a variety of sweet bread from Mexico. This bread is made from wheat flour, yeast, chicken eggs, cinnamon, and brown sugar.The elaboration of this bread is comparable to many other varieties of sweet bread. The main characteristic that distinguishes it is the decoration of brown sugar and cinnamon balls hardened in the oven; the bread itself is usually given a hemispherical shape. A similar procedure is used for the shells, but these are decorated with rectangular crusts made from a different type of bread dough.

• Trinidad (Ecuador): María de los Ángeles, te habia comentado antes, pero no en el hilo. Me encanta tu receta y me gustaría saber en que nomás consiste la preparación de la olla. Son esas cosas de las que no se habla mucho pero siempre hay alguien que conoce los secretos del antes. Saludos
• Viridiana (México): Y sabe delicioso
• Ma. de los Ángeles Magaña: Así es Viri. ¡Delicioso!
• Todd (USA): tu publicación fue una lectura muy interesante. La historia de cómo el Ixtaltepic cuando era el mejor momento para lavar el maíz y las ollas cuando el río está limpio. También fue interesante saber que esta preparación llevaría días. Creo que también dijiste que para el guiso se cocina una vaca entera. Esto es muy diferente de cualquier plato que encontraría en mi cultura. Además, debido a la ciudad en la que vivo, no hay suficiente espacio para cocinar un animal del tamaño de una vaca. Sin embargo, mis primos que viven en un área rural de Kore, he visto cocinar a fuego lento un cerdo durante medio día. Incluso entonces no era toda la variedad de carnes que obtendrías de un cerdo. ¡Esta clase fue tan increíble!